Indego by Vineet

From Time Out Dubai Eating Out 2010For those divided over whether Indego’s Indian/Western fusion fare disqualifies the place from being considered an Indian restaurant (after all, you’re unlikely to get a goat cheese and pine nut samosa at your average joint in Karama), it’s worth considering that while it excels at the fancy stuff , it isn’t quite up to scratch on more traditional offerings. Consultant chef Vineet Bhatia – the first Indian chef to receive a Michelin star – has produced an admirably inventive menu, a lot of which works: honey-basted tandoori salmon, for example, is a subtle but startlingly original dish, and the lamb chops with ginger and garlic are every bit as tender and expertly spiced as you might hope. Ask for chicken madras, though, and the result is middling – even a little boring – and will set you back Dhs140 for the pleasure. Still, we can’t fault the experience of dining here. Service is flawless, the decor warm and elegant, and the vibe relaxed but undoubtedly special. Go for fine dining with an Indian twist – but if you’re after a lamb bhuna and a few beers, then this isn’t the place.

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