The Bombay

The Marco Polo Hotel, where The Bombay is located, is no Burj Al Arab. Next door in the Fox & Hounds pub an enthusiastic band makes a living by grinding out ropey cover versions while other bars and restaurants in the Muteena area give rise to Deira’s lovable but rather worn image. But the Marco Polo Hotel’s off-the-beaten-track location proves that sometimes you have to dig a little deeper to find the most valuable treasures: The Bombay is a gem of a northern Indian restaurant. On our visit the restaurant was almost full and aside from one couple all the other diners were Indians – always a good sign. Within seconds of sitting down, conical poppadams were whisked out along with six excellent dips. Members of the three piece band smiled serenely as the female singer glided through her repertoire, and creating just the right atmosphere without being intrusive, the bongo player gently patted out his rhythms. The fish tikka lahsooni was up there with the best Indian dishes we’ve tried this year. The big chunks of pomfret coated with garlic marinade flaked alluringly and the murgh reshmi kebab, minced chicken with cardamom and chopped mint, was flavoured to perfection and pleasingly tender. For mains, the butter chicken was as good as any in Dubai and all the sweeter for having been served by staff who were polite and efficient but not over-attentive. Our mutton rogan josh was a slight pothole in this road to curry nirvana, but the cubes of Kashmiri cuisine only failed for being a little over-spiced for our liking. When going for an Indian meal in Dubai it’s easy to plump for cheap and cheerful or go to the other extreme and opt for luxury and high prices. Somewhere in between the two, The Bombay is a midrange discovery that Marco Polo himself would have been proud of. The bill (for two) Murgh reshmi kebab Dhs38 Lahsooni fish tikka Dhs40 Butter chicken Dhs38 Mutton rogan josh Dhs38 2x butter naan Dhs10 Bottle Chianti Dhs150 Total (including service) Dhs314

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